For the first time on this trip, the rain arrived. Not a passing drizzle, enough to require a stop, rain gear on, pannier covers fitted, then back on the road. A brief reminder that Taiwan doesn’t owe us perfect weather, even if it has largely provided it.

All day, the peaks have been closing in. The scenery through Hualien county kept building, lush, dramatic, the mountains shifting from backdrop to something altogether more present. They aren’t quite overhead yet but tomorrow they will be.

One 7-Eleven stop at 9:30am, on schedule and non-negotiable as always. Otherwise a clean, efficient ride, 17.2km/h overall average, 21.6km/h moving, 80% moving time across 87km. Total time: 5.03 and finished before noon.

This left time for Xincheng Old Street. A gentle stroll, some local food, and a peanut wheel cake that did not last long from a street cart. A calm, unhurried afternoon, exactly the right way to spend the hours before Stage 9.

Tomorrow is stage 9, Xincheng → Yilan, estimated 99km with 2,145m of climbing and the (in)famous Suhua Highway. The biggest climbing day of the entire trip.

The mountains stop being scenery tomorrow. We’ve been watching them for days, it will be time to ride through them.

Stage 7 complete. Taimali, Taitung → Ruisui, Hualien. 117km. 972m of climbing.

A 6:25am start into light headwinds that gradually eased as the day progressed, almost as if Taiwan was offering a quiet apology for Friday.

What followed was a rock solid ride from start to finish. Strength maintained, speed maintained, no drama.

The landscape gave us everything the east coast promised. Lush green mountains, rice fields, long valley stretches with the kind of scenery that makes you forget your legs have already covered several hundred kilometres this week. The encouragement from locals was relentless, more 'Jiayou' shouts than we could count, from cars, scooters, roadside strangers. This island really does get behind its cyclists.

Nutrition was handled differently today. A high protein light breakfast before the off, a proper carb and protein stop at 9:30am, and a Snickers at the right moment later in the day that did more work than it had any right to. We had planned a third stop but the pace was strong enough that Ruisui came into view before we needed it.

The stage didn’t let us off easily at the end, a 2.5km climb gaining 100m to finish, because apparently arriving gently wasn’t on the agenda, it was earned.

Average moving speed of 20.4km/h. Overall average of 18.7km/h, the best of the trip. 91% moving time across 117km and a total time of 6h16m.

Once we arrived in Ruisui, we had a thoroughly enjoyable lunch at a road side noodle shop in the village, then hot springs followed later. The legs, for once, have very little to complain about.

Stage 6 complete. Fangshan Township → Taimali Township, Taitung. 90km. 1,299m of climbing.

Stages 1 through 5 introduced us to Taiwan. Stage 6 introduced us to what Taiwan is actually capable of throwing at two cyclists on a Friday morning.

Within the first ten minutes, gusts so strong we could barely move forwards and nearly came off the bikes entirely. A sign, as it turned out, of what the next seven hours had in store.

The climbing began to make itself known around 10km, but it was at 18km that it really started to bite, a sustained 5km mountain ascent that carried us from the west coast to the east.

What followed was a long, sweeping descent that made every upward metre feel worthwhile. The Pacific opened up below us, the views were stunning.

The wind never relented, for 90% of the ride, headwinds, gusts, constant resistance. The kind that doesn’t show up in the climbing numbers but shows up everywhere else. Overall average speed of 12.4km/h tells that story better than anything else could.

The people were awesome. Horns, waves, encouragement throughout the day, at the 7-Eleven lunch stop, a lady came over specifically to raise a toast to us with her drink.

Taimali Township, Taitung is where stage 6 finished just after 2pm. Hot springs waiting at the end, the first round has already done something for the muscles, though the tiredness is very real. Rest day tomorrow, it is very welcome.

Five stages. 490km. 2,124m of climbing. Our sore seat situation that shall not be dwelt upon but cannot be entirely ignored.

By the numbers, we’re at the halfway point of Taiwan pedal.360 2026. Ten stages, and we’ve completed five. But numbers, as this trip keeps reminding us, only tell part of the story. The 494km ahead is broadly similar to what we’ve covered. The 6,361m of climbing ahead is not. We’ve done 2,124m. We have three times that still to come, concentrated in the east coast stages and the final push back over the mountains to Taipei. Halfway in stages. Somewhere well short of halfway in effort.

And yet, the legs are holding up stronger than either of us had any right to expect. We should probably confess at this point that the two months before departure were not, shall we say, characterised by intensive cycling preparation. Generally fit, yes. Trained for back-to-back century rides across Taiwan, not exactly.

Stages 1 through 5 have taken us down Taiwan’s west coast, from Taipei through Hsinchu, Changhua, Chiayi, Kaohsiung and now to Fangshan at the island’s southwestern tip. The west is industrial, agricultural, dense with cities and traffic and infrastructure. It is not, in the conventional sense, the scenic half of the route. The east coast, which begins properly tomorrow is where the landscape opens up.

But the west has delivered its own rewards. The cycling infrastructure has been genuinely impressive: dedicated cycleways, rest stops, clear signage including the Cycling Route No.1, which has been our companion throughout. Taiwan has invested in making this kind of journey possible, and it shows.

If there is one thing that defines the first half of this trip, it’s the warmth of everyone we’ve encountered. Cars honking and waving, not in frustration, in encouragement. Riders on bikes calling out as they pass. Strangers taking a moment at a traffic light to point two cyclists towards a better route.

Today, an elderly man on a scooter pulled alongside us and, with considerable insistence and even more warmth, handed over his egg and fish sandwich. He wanted nothing in return except to see us fed and encouraged. Alex carried it to the 7-Eleven stop and ate it there. It was, by all accounts, excellent.

These moments accumulate. They become the texture of the trip, as much a part of the experience as the kilometres and the climbing.

Stage 1 (Taipei → Hsinchu, distance: 94km, climb: 666m) announced itself with three climbs and a max speed of 47.5km/h on the way down. A proper opening statement.

Stage 2 (Hsinchu → Changhua, distance: 123km, climb: 695m) was the early examination, a route closure added 10km, a chain decided to take a break mid-stage, and the climbing came in at nearly double what the plan suggested. The legs passed the test, if not entirely comfortably.

Stage 3 (Changhua → Chiayi, distance: 79km, climb: 215m) was the one where everything clicked. Finished by noon. Mercifully flat. The relief of a short day after Stage 2 was considerable.

Stage 4 (Chiayi → Kaohsiung, distance: 124km, climb: 350m) was the longest day yet, through agricultural and industrial Taiwan, tracking the HSR line into the city through intersection after intersection, a masterclass in patience, as it turned out.

Stage 5 (Kaohsiung → Fangshan, distance: 69km, climb: 198m) brought the coast, the mountains on the horizon to our left, and the growing sense that the landscape is shifting. Fangshan sits right on the water. The accommodation was directly on the route. We rolled in at 12:15pm, five stages done.

The sore seat is real. The weary legs are real. The excitement every single morning, for what the day holds, what the road will bring, who we’ll meet, is equally real, and has not diminished once.

Tomorrow, Stage 6. Fangshan to Taitung, 89km, 1,150m of climbing. The mountains to our left today become the road beneath our wheels.

Riding for the Taiwan Fund for Children and Families (TFCF) and their Art Therapy programme. If you’d like to support the ride: https://www.globalgiving.org/fundraisers/rustyrhinos-pedal360/

Another day that declined to match the plan’s 108km, the legs have stopped being surprised by this. Two mandatory 7-Eleven stops which is expected on such a long stretch.

350m of climbing, broadly as planned. The warmest day yet, nudging 26°C through agricultural and industrial Taiwan in equal measure.

The final stretch tracking the HSR line into Kaohsiung, intersection after intersection, traffic light after traffic light was a masterclass in patience. We are, apparently, patient people.

The shortest day on paper, finishing by noon with enough energy left to form an opinion about lunch.

A minor detour of under a kilometre for a bridge closure, one mandatory 7-Eleven stop, and notably, not a single other cyclist spotted all day. Either we’re ahead of the pack, or everyone else knows something we don’t.

Average moving speed of 21.3km/h, overall average of 16.0km/h. Max speed of 40.1km/h, a considerably more sensible descent than yesterday’s 57.2km/h, suggesting at least some personal growth on this trip.

Chiayi rewarded the early finish. Soup noodles for lunch a traditional restaurant. Then Wenhua Road Night Market where we feasted on grilled skewers from an ornate red cart parked in front of a church, hot and sour noodles, banana pancakes, and a fried cheese baton of frankly alarming proportions. We may have slightly overdone it. We have no regrets.

A somewhat longer day than the 107km on the plan, a route closure forcing a 10km detour, a chain that decided to take an unscheduled break, a gear issue requiring a roadside repair, and hotels that don’t always park themselves exactly on the route. An extra few kilometres builds character. Allegedly.

Average moving speed of 22.5km/h, overall average of 16.1km/h once you factor in the stops, the 7-Eleven detour was again non-negotiable, and we stand by that decision.

Max speed of 57.2km/h suggests we found a descent and made some very questionable life choices on the way down.

GPS recorded 695m of climbing, more than the planned 338m, though in fairness it was gradual and well spread out, which meant the legs never really knew what was happening.

Changhua truly delivered. Stinky tofu navigated with the help of a kind stranger who translated the menu, then a shaved ice bowl of taro balls, red beans and purple rice, the owner’s daughter personally walked us through every ingredient, no pressure, just warmth. Taiwan looks after its cyclists - on and off the bike.

Three climbs that we’d like to describe as a walk in the park, but the burn in our legs told us otherwise.

Average moving speed of 21.2km/h, overall average of 16.5km/h once you factor in the stops, including at least one entirely necessary 7-Eleven intervention.

Lesson learned: apparently three hours of near-continuous cycling requires more frequent snacking. Nutrition strategy under urgent review.

Hsinchu has rewarded us — a city with real soul. Taiwan’s semiconductor heartland, home to the chips that power the world. We contributed nothing to the industry today, but we did eat their noodles.

Alex & Adam

Rusty Rhinos

The date is locked. The bikes are real. The legs are... well, they'll have to get used to the idea.

We saddle up in Taipei and don't stop (much) until they've cycled the entire island of Taiwan. 961km. 7,962m of climbing. 10 riding days, 2 rest days, and approximately zero guarantees that everything will go to plan.

As many of you already know, we're raising funds for the Taiwan Fund for Children and Families (TFCF) and their Art Therapy for Early Intervention Children project — using creative therapy to support young children with developmental challenges. Local, meaningful, and close to our hearts for this trip.

Stage 1 — Taipei → Hsinchu | 89km | 450m climb
We ease in gently. Relative word, "gently." Day 1 is the warm-up act — legs still fresh, optimism still intact. Hsinchu is famously windy, which we're choosing to interpret as character-building rather than a warning.

Stage 2 — Hsinchu → Changhua | 107km | 338m climb
First proper century-ish day. Flat west coast, tailwind (hopefully), agricultural scenery, and the dawning realisation that we're doing this every day for a week and a half.

Stage 3 — Changhua → Chiayi | 79km | 242m climb
The shortest day on paper. Don't be fooled — short days have a habit of feeling long when your backside has already clocked up 200km.

Stage 4 — Chiayi → Kaohsiung | 108km | 361m climb
Taiwan's second city awaits. Four consecutive days of riding in the legs. Dinner in Kaohsiung will feel very well-earned.

Stage 5 — Kaohsiung → Fangshan | 84km | 210m climb
Heading south toward Taiwan's tip. The west coast has been kind — mostly flat, mostly tailwind. We make the most of it because we know what's coming.

Stage 6 — Fangshan → Taitung | 89km | 1,150m climb
Ah. Here we go. The Shouka climb kicks things off, and then the route drops to the east coast — fully exposed to Pacific headwinds with nowhere to hide. Dramatically beautiful. Also properly hard. We will appreciate the rest in Taitung enormously, ideally horizontal.

Stage 7 — Taitung → Ruisui | 112km | 860m climb
The longest day of the whole trip. The east coast in earnest — the Huadong Rift Valley, rice paddies, mountains to the left, Pacific to the right. Stunning. Also 112km with nearly a kilometre of climbing. We will enjoy Ruisui's legendary hot springs with absolutely no guilt whatsoever.

Stage 8 — Ruisui → Xincheng | 88km | 328m climb
A more manageable day by comparison, which at this point means we only feel slightly broken. We arrive in the shadow of Taroko Gorge, one of Taiwan's most spectacular landscapes. We'll try to appreciate it despite our legs.

Stage 9 — Xincheng → Yilan | 99km | 2,145m climb
The queen stage. The big one. The one we've been quietly dreading since we planned the route. Nearly 100km and over 2,100m of climbing — more elevation gain in a single day than most people manage in a month. The rest in Yilan will be appreciated on a level that words cannot adequately describe.

Stage 10 — Yilan → Taipei | 106km | 1,878m climb
The final stage. The finish line. The glory. Also, cruelly, nearly 1,900m of climbing on the last day — because Taiwan has a sense of humour. We roll back into Taipei completing the full loop. 961km done.

Follow along here and on our socials for regular updates from the road. And if you've been meaning to donate, now's a great time.

For six events, the Rusty Rhinos formula has been reassuringly familiar: A 1964 Land Rover (mostly), remote roads, questionable decisions, excellent stories and supporting a charity close to our hearts.

In March 2026, we are ditching horsepower and swapping it for leg power, taking on our first ever human-powered Rusty Rhinos adventure, Taiwan pedal.360 2026.

No engine. No fuel (unless burning a serious amount of calories is considered fuel).
No support vehicle. Totally self-sufficient carrying everything we need on our bicycles.
No spares box the size of a fridge.

This will be our seventh Rusty Rhinos event, and the first not involving any sort of vehicle. Instead of oil leaks and low-range gearing, we’ll be managing energy, weather, and whether our legs still like us by day five.

Taiwan was an easy choice, dramatic coastline, misty mountains, incredible food, and a strong cycling culture all wrapped neatly into a round-island route that quietly dares you to try it.

We’ll be riding day after day (with a couple of recovery days planned in ahead of some steep climbs), chasing the horizon, documenting the journey, and inevitably questioning whose idea this was.

As part of the ride, we’ll also be fundraising for a Taiwan-based charity, supporting a local cause and giving something back to the places we pass through. More on that soon.

Different machine. Same ethos.
Adventure over comfort.
Good stories over perfect plans.

No engine noise this time — just chains, tyres, and the occasional laugh at our own expense.