BREAKING NEWS: Wristwatch News & Reviews

Buying a Chronograph? Here Are 10 Things You Should Know

Wed, 24 Apr 2024 09:00:14 -0400

Sometimes, the analysis of which watch to buy proceeds little further than, “Wow, that one looks cool.” Chronographs, however, are often thought of as “tool watches,” and when it comes to tools, you want the right one for the job. To guide your choice we’re revisiting this guide from the WatchTime Archives, offering 10 factors to consider when selecting a chronograph to help make sure it suits your wants and your needs.

1. It’s the Way That You Use It

Salesman: “How will you use your chronograph?” Customer: “Use it? I hadn’t thought about that.” Chronographs are not just for timing races – they offer many practical uses. Tracking cooking times, parking meters, walks or runs, bike rides, exercise routines, meetings, and guaranteed pizza delivery are often cited. So is determining the shortest commuting route. With your chronograph, you can find out how long an “instant” oil change really takes. Or, try this: when they tell you your table will be ready in five minutes, press the start button. When your wife says she will be ready in five minutes, press the… no, wait, that’s a bad idea.

Lawyers and others who sell units of time can track billable hours. Or you can pass the time by measuring intervals spent stuck in traffic, watching TV commercials, or waiting for the doctor/dentist. Activate your chronograph for a short time when you have an idea you want to remember. Later, when you see the odd elapsed time, it will jog your memory (assuming the idea is still in there). Other uses require that the watch have particular features. For example, most chronographs can’t be operated under water, and many can’t time hours-long events. Some chronographs are designed to run continuously, while others are not (more on this later). Choose carefully if these are features you desire.

2. Can You See Me Now?

Legibility – the easy-to-read display of elapsed times – can no longer be taken for granted. In days gone by, manufacturers assumed that chronographs would be used and relied upon, so legible elapsed times were a given. Today, elapsed-time indications are often sacrificed on the altar of fashion. Manufacturers will ditch them in a second for the sake of a design they think will induce the customer to say, “That one looks really cool,” and reach for his or her wallet

Hungry subdials: the IWC’s “eat” several chronograph seconds, while the Zenith’s eat each other.

But you’ll want displays that are easy to make out when you’re using your chronograph, so pay attention to the dial, and especially to what’s missing. If you need to read the chronograph in the dark (we won’t ask what you might be timing), you’ll have to search even more diligently, as very few chronographs will suit your needs.

3. The Origin of the Species

A. Lange & Söhne’s Caliber L951.6 from the Datograph Up/Down is a finely finished in-house movement.

Chronograph movements come in a range of flavors: in-house, third-party and hybrid, integrated and modular, and more. To some, this is a virtual caste system, and place of birth and physical form confer status, or stigma, for life.

In-house chronographs are typically integrated, not modular, in design, and a column wheel usually occupies central command (more on these concepts below). In-house movements can offer fine functional finishing, careful adjustment, and the resulting smooth feel of quality. They can also be beautiful to behold. In-house production gives brands the freedom to produce singular designs, and offers control over every step in the manufacturing process. Of course, all of that requires investment. Chronographs with in-house movements tend to be rather dear, and service can be costly as well. The service is also likely to take a long time, and be performed far away. Collectors often joke about the number of frequent flier miles their timepieces have accumulated. That’s called using humor to mask pain.

Third-party movements offer their own advantages. Most have been around for awhile, or they are based on tried-and-true designs, so they are extremely reliable. Service is relatively inexpensive and can usually be handled without sending your watch overseas. Replacement parts are in ready supply. These movements are generally quite sturdy, and they can be excellent timekeepers. (ETA offers mechanical movements in various grades, and as you move up the quality ladder, the timekeeping improves. The top level is COSC-certified.) On the other hand, third-party movements are produced in large quantities, so they are not exclusive. They exhibit little or no hand work. Their components are often stamped, not milled.

Girard-Perregaux’s new chronograph caliber is an integrated, column-wheel design.

They are rarely beautiful to behold. They tend to employ mechanisms designed primarily to reduce costs. Some of these calibers can be found in watches costing from hundreds of dollars to several thousand, even reaching into five figures, which can be distressing to those who buy in at the upper end of the spectrum.

4. Built-Ins and Add-Ons

The Breitling Caliber 01 (above) and Rolex Caliber 4130 (below) both use column wheels to control the start, stop and reset functions.

When it comes to chronograph movement design, purists prefer integrated to modular, because the integrated variety is designed to be a chronograph from the ground up. That means all components are optimized for that use. That can be important because a chronograph can be a “heavy” complication that requires significant power to operate. If engaging the chronograph generates a drag the base caliber was not designed to handle, that can affect timekeeping, which means the chronograph can’t measure elapsed time accurately (though most of us would never notice the split-second error). Modular movements, also called sandwich or piggyback designs, begin with a base caliber and add a chronograph mechanism mounted on a separate plate, usually on the dial side. If you want a nice view of the chronograph through the display back, an integrated movement is the way to go.

Some feel that in all but the finest executions, a modular construction will be less precise. The chronograph seconds hand may jump or stutter when started, the continuous seconds or the minutes hand may jump slightly when the chronograph is activated (even the date disk may move slightly), and the feel of the push-piece is not as smooth and buttery. As noted above, modular designs can also generate more amplitude-reducing drag when the chronograph is engaged. In two recent WatchTime tests, a modular chronograph’s amplitude dropped by 73.5 degrees on average when the chronograph was switched on, while an integrated model’s fell by 19.5 degrees. (The integrated model also used a vertical clutch – see below.) If you’re not sure which type of movement a given watch contains, there are some modular tip-offs. They include a high jewel count, no chronograph components visible through the display back, a date display that sits down in a hole and not directly below the dial, and a crown that is not on the same horizontal plane as the chronograph buttons (though some brands try to disguise this with oversized crowns, push-pieces, and guards).

5. Make It So

Imagine what would happen if you could activate the reset mechanism while the chronograph was running. The phrase “train wreck” comes to mind, and yes, the pun is intended. (Note to newbies: see “train” in Berner’s.) To prevent this and other disasters, chronographs employ systems to coordinate actions initiated by the push-pieces. As you might expect, there are different systems, and each has its supporters and detractors. The traditional system, favored by purists, is the column wheel, so named because the key component looks like a wheel lying on its side with a series of small, vertical columns rising up from it. Each push of a button causes the wheel to turn, and as it turns, the columns, and the spaces in between, move in small increments. This action moves the ends of levers that rest against the column wheel, and the levers control the chronograph’s start, stop and reset functions. Column wheels are traditional, expensive to manufacture and to adjust, and difficult to service. They also look great, and they provide very smooth push-piece feel. In other words, they’re made to order for luxury chronographs.

Column wheels were once ubiquitous, but some manufacturers searching for efficiencies developed cam mechanisms to take the column wheel’s place. The new system functions much like the traditional one, with an eccentric cam (a thin piece of metal with an irregular shape) replacing the column wheel. Cam systems are generally less expensive to manufacture, easier to adjust, easier to service, and not as nice looking. In use, cams generally perform as well as column wheels. NASA certified both the column-wheel and cam versions of the Omega Speedmaster for space flight. Chronographs powered by the Lemania Caliber 5100, with cam switching, were certified by several countries for military use. When the Swatch Group announced that it would halt Caliber 5100 production, watch manufacturers using the movement objected, saying it was the only caliber that could withstand large shocks without the chronograph seconds hand stopping. (The 5100 was eventually discontinued and replaced by an ETA caliber.) Finally, the ETA 7750, which is also known for being rugged, uses cam switching. If you’re looking for a tough tool watch and you don’t care about movement aesthetics, cam switching will fit the bill. If you care about tradition, a nice view through the display back, and the approval of purists, the column wheel is for you.

6. Let’s Get Engaged

An example of a vertical clutch mechanism from the Rolex Caliber 4130 chronograph movement

The column wheel and cam issue orders, but other components further downstream transmit the mainspring’s energy to the stopwatch, and once again, there are competing systems. The traditional system uses horizontal or lateral coupling to transmit energy. When the start button is depressed, a wheel mounted on a moveable bridge or lever slides horizontally to link the fourth wheel, which rotates once per minute, with the chronograph center wheel, which drives the chronograph seconds hand. The intermedia

Back in Platinum and Blue, Meet the Latest Rolex Perpetual 1908

Wed, 24 Apr 2024 08:34:00 -0400

Last year, Rolex first introduced its Perpetual 1908 collection, working to revitalize its formal-focused segment from a slightly different angle after discontinuing its Cellini collection. This year, the brand grew the series once more— unveiling a new platinum-clad, time-only edition at Watches & Wonders 2024.

On the wrist, the new Rolex Perpetual 1908 wears 39mm across in a case evoking an original oyster shape, if not somewhat thinner with an effort towards refinement. A polished platinum construction differentiates the model compared to its gold counterparts first released in 2023, while a tapering crown and lugs anchor it within the growing collection; a slim fluted bezel recalls another classic motif of the Crown.

On the dial, a guilloche “rice-grain” pattern provides the base for the look, with it executed in a familiar Rolex ice blue which the brand has made use of in other platinum edition watches, notably the Day-Date and Daytona. Applied indices with Arabic quarter markers help differentiate the watch from other Rolex configurations, as does the 6 o’clock sub-seconds and distinct application of the brand’s logo towards the 12 o’clock position; a collection-unique pair of hands sweep over it all, indicating the passing hours and minutes.

Inside the watch is the Rolex caliber 7140, which in modern fashion with the brand features a number of technical features, with the brand specifically calling out a Syloxi hairspring in silicon alongside Paraflex shock absorbers. The automatic mechanism is capable of a 66 hour power reserve and is accurate to +/-2 seconds per day. A skeletonized bi-directional rotor winds the movement, which itself is visible with all its fine finishing a via a sapphire exhibition caseback.

The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 comes standard on an alligator leather strap, with pricing marked at 29,600 CHF, or approximately $32,500 USD at the time of writing.

To learn more, visit Rolex, here.

Great Briton: The Watchmaking Wizardry of Roger W. Smith

Tue, 23 Apr 2024 10:30:00 -0400

Once an apprentice to the revered George Daniels, Roger W. Smith is considered the greatest British watchmaker today. In this 2021 WatchTime Archive profile from our sister magazine, WatchTime Middle East, we discover what makes him tick.

Roger W. Smith

A protégé of the esteemed George Daniels, Roger W. Smith has assumed the mantle of Britain’s preeminent watchmaker for close to a decade now following the passing of his mentor. Awarded an OBE (Order of the British Empire) this year for his services to British watchmaking, Smith is renowned for producing watches by hand in the splendid isolation of the Isle of Man using the traditional methods espoused by Daniels.

At a time when it feels like mainstream brands are running out of ideas to reel in new buyers, clients have to wait close to three years to get their hands on a Roger W. Smith wristwatch, which may cost them in excess of $150,000. These timepieces produced by Smith and his team follow “The Daniels Method” – every component is made from raw materials in the Isle of Man studio without the use of repetitive or automatic tools. In what is an antithesis to the assembly line production that is the norm in the mainstream industry, a watchmaker must master 32 of the 34 skills requisite in handcrafting a watch to be able to follow The Daniels Method. Smith set up his own studio in 2001 “with our unswerving ethos to only craft watches by hand.” It takes the studio about 12 months to complete a watch; it can take weeks just to engine-turn the dial of a Series 2 wristwatch.

“As a result, production will always be low – we only make 10 pieces a year,” says Smith when we caught up with the soft-spoken watchmaker during the Horology Forum hosted by Dubai Watch Week and Christie’s in London last September. “The new workshop will let us take on some extra staff and extra pieces of equipment. We might increase production to about 13 pieces a year spread across the range of five models.”

From left: Series 1 to 4 starting with a simple time-only movement to an instantaneous triple calendar

Smith was bequeathed Daniels’ workshop following the latter’s death in 2011 at the age of 85. “You’ll never hear of us making 50-100 watches a year. That is just not possible with the kind of techniques we use in the workshop and the direct link back to The Daniels Method, which is very important to me.”

Switzerland may be synonymous with high watchmaking today (although some might argue the German town of Glashütte is more deserving of this accolade), but let’s not forget that some of the most important inventions in horology are attributed to British watchmakers. To recap, the balance spring was invented by Robert Hooke around 1664, and Thomas Prest is credited with introducing keyless winding to watchmaking in 1820. More recently, George Daniels invented the co-axial escapement in 1974, considered by many as the greatest horological invention of the last 250 years.

The decline of British watchmaking began in the 1850s with the advent of industrialization. British watchmakers couldn’t cope with the cheaper, more industrialized pocketwatches that were produced in the United States. “You could buy a very high-quality American pocketwatch for a third of the price of a British one and that really was the start of the decline,” says Smith. The next big nail in the coffin was when Switzerland industrialized the wristwatch-making process in the 20th century. By then Britain was losing the skills required to stay in the game.

In the last decade or so, a clutch of British brands have risen to prominence. While the aviation-inspired Bremont has a more mainstream focus, boutique brands like Charles Frodsham and the Birmingham-based Struthers have flown the flag for artisanal watchmakers. But for the best part of the decade, Roger W. Smith was the only British watchmaker.

Roger W. Smith Series III

“It is difficult. Once an industry disappears from a country, it is very difficult to replace that,” says Smith. “Yes, we are employing people and training them in our methods. I’m hoping that one day someone will leave my atelier and start his own watchmaking company. In the early days, it’s always going to be small, but there are things happening. Struthers, Bremont and Frodsham are all doing their good thing. These are tiny steps but it can only be good news for the industry. When I started, there was just George Daniels in England. There was Derek Pratt but he was in Switzerland.”

With mainstream production of watches increasingly becoming more assembly line-driven, it’s getting harder to find people with the right skills. And it’s not a problem isolated to Switzerland alone. “There were always people willing to come and work, but the challenge has always been finding the right people, those who are willing to learn, not only from me, but also in their own time and develop their skills,” says Smith. Unlike Philippe Dufour, the great Swiss watchmaker who prefers to work alone because he reckons his exacting standards often intimidate young apprentices, Smith says he enjoys working with people. “Provided you give apprentices the right training, it works. I enjoy the process.”

Roger W. Smith watches now feature his latest single-wheel version of the Daniels co-axial escapement. In Smith’s version, the upper and lower wheels are combined into one by adding raised “teeth” onto the lower wheel. This would result in the escape wheel being made in one single operation and removing a potential source of error. Smith recalls the conversations he had with his mentor about the single wheel escapement. “He could see the benefits to it and how it was going to improve timekeeping. As a result of that, we fitted the single wheel into the Daniels Anniversary watches that I built for George,” recalls Smith.

“Today, we use an Mk II version, a more scaled-down version of this. And it’s proving to be a staggering escapement. For me, the real qualities of a co-axial escapement are coming out now – the difference in efficiency is remarkable and it’s thanks to the pushing action of the escapement. But in scaling it down, we are still driving the same balance, we have managed to reduce the mainspring strength significantly,” says Smith.

The watches feature traditional English movement finishing, such as the raised barrel bridge and balance cock, engraved with an English floral design.

The result is that there’s less wear now in the winding of the watch and service intervals have now been extended. Smith says that although they advertise 10 years on the website, he believes these watches could run for 15-20 years or more without requiring any service. “That’s unheard of in the industry and it’s thanks to this brilliant escapement combined with the robustness of the watches. My watches are strong; they are built to last. They are built on the same proportions as British pocketwatches. Today, you can buy an English pocketwatch that is 300-400 years old and it will keep as good time as it did when it was first made. And that was because of its robust construction, and that’s the same sort of principles that I use in my watchmaking.”

The development of Smith’s escapement has been a slow burn. He started working on it in 1998 with Daniels and he first fitted a co-axial escapement into his Series 2 watch, the first production watch in the world to have been designed to fit this escapement. “It’s been a long slow development period for this escapement and we have learned with every single watch we have made since. You make slight adjustments to the escapement and you realize the improvements it begets,” he says.

The Isle of Man is a little land mass in the Irish Sea between Great Britain and Ireland. Not exactly the most accessible place on earth, but if there’s one thing that Smith and his crew have in common with the watchmakers of Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux, it would be their isolation. Over the years, the advent of social media platforms like Instagram has helped Smith reach out to more people. “I use Instagram and YouTube to great effect and it’s enabled me to get to a wider audience. It’s been responsible in part for this resurgence in people trying to make watches. If you go on to Instagram today, there are many people out there who are trying to make watches. And that can only be a good thing,” says Smith.

Roger W. Smith in his workshop on Britain’s Isle of Man

While Omega was the first mainstream brand in 1999 to use the co-axial escapement in its Caliber 2500 movement, the Swiss brand has since combined it with a silicon hairspring in movements like the Master Chronometer 8800. However, Smith isn’t convinced about the use of silicon in escapements at all. “You can buy a mechanical watch that is 300-400 years old and it will still keep time very well with a little service. What’s wrong with continuing to use these materials? I know these materials are tried and tested and I know that by using these traditional materials and methods, I can build watches that will be around for hundreds of years. We can still replace components if need be. I don’t really know how anyone is benefiting from these new materials.”

“Our clients are very technically orientated, they are interested in the co-axial escapement,” he further explains. “They would buy a Frodsham watch because I think they would like that double-impulse detent escapement. I think our typical customer has sort of remained the same over the years, which is a good thing for us, because we make very technical watches.”

TAG Heuer Goes Rose Gold with Carrera Skipper

Tue, 23 Apr 2024 08:30:00 -0400

Following a welcome return to the world of yachting with last year’s release of the Carrera Skipper Chronograph in steel, TAG Heuer unveils a new version of this maritime-inspired watch, this time setting sail in a 39mm rose gold case that is water tight to 100 meters.

Like the steel model, the gold Skipper benefits from the ‘glassbox’ design launched in early 2023 to mark the 60^th anniversary of the celebrated Carrera chronograph. This clever design includes a ‘curved flange’ dial beneath its crystal to ensure exceptional legibility from all angles, especially when the watch is being used in a regatta situation for timing the vital 15-minute period before the starting gun is fired.

In terms of its color scheme, the Skipper in gold harks back to the historic Skipper Reference 7754 from 1968 by combining a sea-blue dial with two, sharply contrasting sub-dials – a 12-hour counter in ‘Intrepid Teal’ and a 15-minute regatta counter divided into three, five–minute segments of different colors.

These colors replicate those used on the original Skipper chronograph of 1968, which was launched under the leadership of Jack Heuer to celebrate the victory of the New York Yacht Club’s ‘Intrepid’ over New Zealand’s ‘Dame Pattie’ in the previous year’s America’s Cup.

Heuer had equipped Intrepid’s crew with hand-held yachting timers and Aquastar wrist watches for the event, the latter of which featured a countdown mechanism in the form of a red and white disc that rotated behind five holes.

To mark the association with Intrepid, the Skipper’s tri-colored 15-minute countdown sub-dial was divided in the following way: Lagoon Green (inspired by Intrepid’s rigging); Intrepid Teal (the colour of her deck) and, for the final five-minute ‘get ready’ sector, Regatta Orange.

Like the steel model, the Skipper in 18K 5N rose gold also features triangular markers (a motif drawn from heritage Heuer models) at five-minute intervals around the outer curved flange, a lacquered ‘regatta orange’ central seconds hand and a discreet ‘Skipper’ writing at the bottom of the 12-hour sub-dial.

Turning the watch over reveals a transparent case back through which can be seen the in-house Heuer 02 (Ref. TH20-06) Skipper calibre – a column-wheel chronograph movement with vertical clutch and 80 hours of power reserve that is equipped with a new, bi-directional rotor in the shape of TAG Heuer’s distinctive shield symbol.

The TAG Heuer Skipper chronograph is attached to a blue fabric strap and has a price tag of CHF 21,000 or about $23,000 USD at the time of writing. It will be available from April 2024.

To learn more, visit TAG Heuer, here.

Meet the Régulateur Automatique 1942 Limited Edition from Aerowatch

Mon, 22 Apr 2024 09:02:00 -0400

Watches with regulator dials seem to be having a moment this year. Their special feature is the dial layout with the minute hand in the center and the hour and second hands on separate sub-dials. In the past, regulators were used by watchmakers as a reference for setting other watches. They were also at work wherever accurate timekeeping was required, such as in observatories.

The independent Aerowatch, rooted in the Jura region— the cradle of watchmaking— introduces the Régulateur Automatique 1942 Limited Edition, with a limitation of 100 pieces. Featuring filigree Clous de Paris guilloche, grooved sub-dials and blued hands, it offers a particularly authentic interpretation of the genre. The functionality is completed by a date indication at 3 o’clock.

Inside the 42mm stainless steel case beats the automatic caliber SW266, which is revealed through a sapphire crystal case back. The Régulateur Automatique 1942 Limited Edition, is worn on a brown leather strap or rice-grain bracelet. Pricing is available upon request.

To learn more, visit Aérowatch, here.

Hands-On: I Landed This Trout Using Casio's $26 Fishing Watch

Thu, 30 Sep 2021 09:00:02 -0400

"We speak of killing a trout with a rod. It is the effort made by the trout that kills it." –Ernest Hemingway

I had a steadfast routine in the summers of my New Jersey pre-teen years. I'd save the last 20 percent of whatever my parents made for dinner and sneak it into a little Ziploc bag and instead of sticking around for dessert – likely freezer pops during the summer – I'd hop on my GT Bump and cruise ten minutes to Grover Cleveland Pond, the local fishing hole, pinning my fishing pole between my left hand and the handlebars. Hanging off the right side of my bike I'd have a small plastic shopping bag with leftover dinner, a few hooks, a bobber or two, a knife, and a rag. The shopping bag went on the right because I needed to keep my right hand available enough to actuate the single rear brake lever in case I saw a neighborhood chum's bike laying in the front yard of their parents' house. In that case I'd slam on the brakes, toss the bike down in the yard, and knock on the door to see if I could convince them to wet a line with me.

Almost every day I'd spend the last few hours of daylight with a line in the water. Sometimes I'd simply be feeding the sunnies (known in other parts of the country as brim or bluegill), but most of the time I'd catch them using a cheap rod-and-reel setup, or even hand-lining.

In the years that followed, I set out beyond suburban Jersey and the bodies of water grew larger and more exotic, and so did the fish. And the gear to catch those fish became increasingly more complex and expensive.

But in all my years amassing fishing gear I missed one piece of kit that existed right in the cross section of fishing and the world of watches: The Casio Fishing Gear, a family of digital watches featuring a five-level fishing indicator that supposedly tells you when the fish are biting. Of course this comes alongside the usual crop of Casio digital watch features like a stopwatch, a second time zone, room for three alarms, and that charming little orange LED backlight to read the watch at night.

So now, 20 years later, I bought one. At $26, it was a pittance compared to the custom medium-action inshore rod that I commissioned at The Rod Room in Orange Beach, Alabama earlier this year – only to later snap it in a car door. It hurts the first time an expensive piece of gear goes overboard or breaks, but in time it just becomes an understood cost of doing business. That's fishing.

There's simply no limit to the amount of money you can spend on fishing gear – the trick is to identify which pieces of kit actually help fill the cooler and splurge on those. Put the money where it counts. I needed to see if this Casio fell into that category. Was it just a superfluous accessory or would it help me pull up more fish?

After bringing it home from Sportsman's Warehouse, I discovered that setting up this watch is more complex than joining braided line and mono line with an FG knot. It's not only an exercise in dexterity, but patience. There are endless menus to navigate using four buttons, and Coordinated Universal Time differential and longitude are required inputs, along with about five other variables, each with their own menus.

Already, I was seeing the true value in this $26 watch, and it had nothing to do with the watch's functionality. It teaches you a very, very important lesson that applies to fishing: Don't rush through things or think you know what you're doing on the first try. Just setting up this watch can fill one with rage. And fish seem to bite less when you're impatient or frustrated.

There's something intuitive about fishing, but using the Fishing Gear is anything but. The instruction booklet for Casio's Module 3485 is about as lengthy as Hemingway's The Old Man and the Sea, the only difference is that you walk away from one of these with a deeper understanding of the art.

The top display is meant to relay the current "suitability" for fishing at any given time. It uses the time, date, and moon data (moon age and moon phase) to determine a suitability score between levels one through five, represented by fish icons, for fishing. It does not take into account weather, location, water clarity, water temperature, water oxygen levels, natural events like the last rain, wind speed and direction, or currents. All of which are pretty important.

For most of my life, to find the fish, I've focused on just about every factor the watch doesn't consider. And after strapping on the Casio Fishing Gear, I've determined that I'm best served by doing exactly what I've been doing all along and nothing else. The watch doesn't tell me anything I don't already know. I'll spare you the precious wrist time and sum up what the watch tells you: Fishing is most suitable at dusk and dawn, and the bite supposedly cools down around a full moon (and currents are strongest for a few days on both sides of it, as well).

The more I used the watch on the water, the less charming I found it. It's as hard to decipher as it is to set up. I kept looking down at the fish finder display looking for fish levels throughout the day, and it did change every now and then, but not in a meaningful way that reflected reality. I fiddled with the four function buttons, but the only one that activated something meaningful was the "light" button. Time spent staring at a screen while out on the water fishing is time wasted (unless we're talking saltwater fish-finding, using sonar). And even though I was catching fish, it had nothing to do with the watch and everything to do with observing the water, considering the seasonal changes, and using insight from the senses. Fishing, like cooking or writing, is about the process. The only way to increase your chances of catching fish is to spend a long time perfecting the craft.

Maybe I'm being hard on a $26 watch, but that's $26 dollars that will put some gas in the truck that takes you to your new favorite fishing hole. It's also the entrance fee for you and a fishing buddy to a new national park where you discover that secret spot. But it's not even about the money, it's more about the idea that sometimes less is more.

In fishing, as in life, there are no shortcuts. In fact, a gimmicky watch only serves as a distraction from the best parts of fishing: Embracing simplicity, cultivating a deep connection with nature, and escaping the digital world. If you ask me, the ideal fishing watch is a time-only highly finished watch (I wear my Grand Seiko SBGK007 for freshwater fishing) that embodies the notion of absolute simplicity and is the result of a constant pursuit of the craft. That's fishing.

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If you want to give one of the Casio Fishing Gear watches a try yourself, find it here . Tight lines and bent rods!

The Sports Section: What's the Best Watch For Outdoor Adventure?

Wed, 29 Sep 2021 15:00:35 -0400

When you’re heading into the wilderness, you’re gonna want a watch. That way you can time your morning hike so you return to camp before breakfast. Or use the GPS if you get lost. Or harness the sun’s rays to build a fire when you realize you forgot the matches.

The question is: Which watch should you take?

Now, we have our share of outdoorsy staffers here at HODINKEE. James Stacey is a certified scuba diver, for instance, and Cole Pennington was raised by wolves. But to give our list some extra cred, we turned to our friends at Huckberry, the Austin brand responsible for some of America’s coziest sleeping bags, driest rain boots, sharpest pocket knives, ruggedest coolers, and most essential Coors Banquet corduroy hats.

Here’s what’s on nine Huckberry wrists. In the spirit of previous HODINKEE stories on the best watches for running (as chosen by Tracksmith) and cycling (as chosen by Rapha), these are Huckberry’s favorite watches for outdoorsing.

Ben O’Meara, VP of Marketing

To me, the perfect adventure watch is one you don’t have to think about, with enough style to wear every day. I love my Halios Seaforth in how beautifully designed, yet rugged and utilitaria n it is. It works anywhere. This watch has been with me every day for the past five years – from my wedding day to backpacking through Asia, and everything in between. I love the steel bezel and lugs – it feels bigger than the 41mm it is. I also threw on a nylon NATO strap, which makes it even easier to wear anywhere.

Chris Aung, Head of Footwear

My oldest possession, and one that has seen the most adventure in its lifetime, is a vintage Omega Seamaster that was passed down to me from my grandfather. In the 1950s, he was posted as a diplomat for the newly democratic Burmese government in Washington, DC, and brought along his family, including my then elementary-school-aged father. Back then, international travel was by boat. They steamed from Rangoon to Ceylon, around the Horn of Africa to the Suez Canal, and onto the US eastern seaboard where my dad saw snow for the first time. Along the way, they stopped in Aden, a port in Yemen, where my grandfather picked up the watch that I would later wear to my college graduation and wedding, and plan to one day gift to my daughter. He would later have to smuggle it out of Burma when my family was exiled after a military coup. Whenever I put it on, it conjures that extraordinary journey he made nearly 70 years ago and reminds me how much I wish I had been able to meet him in person.

Hayden Crider, Social Media Manager

Before I became addicted to my Apple Watch, I seldom took off my Luminox Colormark Navy SEAL. The thing is just an absolute tank. I wore it swimming, wakeboarding, surfing, skating, snowboarding, and it took a beating but never stopped working. The black-on-black look made it kind of go with everything, and since it was waterproof, I literally never had to take it off. Even though I still wear my Apple Watch every day, I still keep my Luminox with a working battery, because you just never know when you need to get into some Navy SEAL stuff.

Brandon Walton, Customer Experience

I always come back to my Timex Weekender. I love it for its versatility to go from adventure to everyday wear. Sure, it’s not the flashiest of watches, but, because of the changeable strap options, it’s a watch I can depend on for pretty much any occasion. I’ve had mine for over 15 years and it’s been on countless hikes, runs, bike rides, and beach outings. It’s affordable, can take a beating, and can be dressed up or down to fit the scene.

Danny Segal, Creative Director

My favorite adventure watch is a vintage Panerai Luminor that my dad "lent" me and has never left my personal collection. I love that I can go surf with it, wear it to any fancy event, and rock it casually as well. It’s way too big for my very dainty wrist, but I love it, nonetheless.

Georgia Naumann, Head of EDC

I’ll be the first to admit that my taste in watches is anything but sophisticated … while I have a great appreciation for the precise and intricate engineering behind a classic automatic watch, the ’90s kid in me just can’t seem to ditch my Freestyle Shark Clip. It has the right colors and retro vibe, it’s lightweight and waterproof so I barely notice it when I’m jogging or swimming, and best of all, it’s a great conversation piece amongst my fellow millennials.

Tony Le, VP of Product

I found this vintage Longines on my second trip to Paris. I love collecting things from my travel adventures, and this is one of my favorite finds so far. What I love most about the watch is the simplicity of it, as it’s all about the rounded hexagonal shape. It’s faded to the perfect amount of wear.

Mike Idell, Director of Brand

I spend a lot of time in or around water, so a proper dive watch is the only option. Aside from the overbuilt tool-watch functionality, when I look at my Doxa Sub 1500T Searambler, I get transported to the good old days of ’70s tarpon fishing in Key West – standing barefoot on a skiff in cutoff denim shorts and a linen shirt, listening to Jimmy Buffett playing on the FM while casting a rickety bamboo 12 Weight. A constant reminder of simpler times when saltwater fly-fishing was unexplored and the most technical piece of gear on your boat was the watch on your wrist. I also particularly love the bracelet clasp on this watch – it has an expandable feature that lets you make micro-adjustments on the fly, for when your wrist expands in hot weather or when wearing it over a wetsuit; no need to swap out for a rubber strap.

Lyndsay Harper, Managing Editor

Whether I’m hiking along the coast or running intervals on the track, I’ll log my miles with a Garmin Forerunner 645 Music. Not only does it track my pace, distance, and effort, it syncs up to Spotify so I can download workout playlists and connect to my wireless earbuds. It’s so much more streamlined than carrying a clunky phone. (I’m also convinced that if you can’t hear how hard you’re breathing, you don’t feel nearly as tired.) Even if I’m not actually working out, I’ll still toss it on to see my GPS data when I’m out for a weekend bike ride, kayak, or surf. It’s fun to see where I’ve been – especially with surfing, where every ride looks like a zig and every paddle out looks like a zag. When you look back on all your activities, it’s a bit like going through an album of all the places you’ve traveled to, explored, and interacted with.

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The HODINKEE Shop is an Authorized Dealer of Garmin, Longines, Omega, and Timex.

In-Depth: The Watch To Wear If You're Going Off The Grid For Good

Wed, 29 Sep 2021 13:00:00 -0400

The watch world is full of interesting hypothetical cases that will, if there is anything like luck or justice, never transpire, but which are fun to consider as thought experiments. Not infrequently, these revolve around various apocalyptic scenarios. One of my all-time favorites, for instance, is the assertion that a quartz watch is inferior to a mechanical watch in the event of a nearby nuclear explosion because the EMP (electromagnetic pulse) associated with the blast will "fry the circuitry" (it turns out to the joy of G-Shock fans worldwide, that this is not, in fact, the case).

Another related but different scenario involves what I like to call (as of five minutes ago when I made it up) the Mad Max Watch Hypothesis. This posits that a mechanical watch is inherently superior to a quartz watch because in the event of a collapse of technological society (which is beginning to seem more like a blessing in disguise than an apocalypse lately, depending on how grouchy you feel about the day's headlines) a mechanical watch can be serviced. A quartz watch on the other hand, will, in the fullness of time, run its battery down and die – not with a bang, but with a whimper.

The Great Outdoors. Image, Hendrik Cornelissen.

In honor of Great Outdoors Week, I would like to consider a closely related – and indeed, very likely identical, at least from a consequences perspective – question, which is: What is the best watch to have with you if you finally get fed up with mankind and its mendacity, and decide to go off the grid?

The critical point here is that you are not just disgruntled – you are, in fact, terminally, permanently disgusted, and find the thought of never again seeing another human not only preferable, but a consummation devoutly to be wished. You have decided that we are not Homo sapiens, but rather, Homo stultus. You are essentially Robinson Crusoe, but you hope with all your heart to never see the immaculate blue sky over the wine-dark sea stained with a smudge of a sail.

I should say, right at the outset (if you can call being five paragraphs in "the outset") that the simplest and most obvious solution is to not have a timepiece at all. I ran the question of what might be the ultimate Off The Grid watch past some colleagues here at HODINKEE, including our commercial director, Russell Kelly, who replied rather drily that probably the last thing you need if you are vanishing into the trackless wilderness, is a wristwatch. This is unassailable logic.

However, this merely raises the obvious point that nobody needs a wristwatch, period, and so we are free to continue to entertain ourselves by considering the best solution for bringing a watch with you when you bug out for good.

The Citizen Eco-Drive Tough

The first obvious possibility is a quartz watch, powered by a solar-cell-recharged battery. You could, for instance, go with a Cartier Tank SolarBeat if you wanted something a little more elegant by which to see when it's time to climb out of your pile of dead leaves and breakfast on squirrel and berry pemmican. However, the problem with rechargeable batteries is that they can only go through so many recharge cycles before they fail. Unless your plan for a watch breaking down involves sneaking into the nearest rural hamlet in a Bigfoot costume under cover of darkness to steal a battery, you will then be, as they say in this man's army, SOL.

Integrated circuits also tend to accumulate gradual damage, although this can to a great extent be ameliorated for considerable lengths of time by properly sealing the IC from the atmosphere, and preventing moisture or excessive heat from affecting it. The Voyager 1 probe has been in space since 1977 and is now technically in interstellar space – and 14.3 billion miles away – as mankind's first interstellar probe. Over 44 years, it has survived extreme temperatures, as well as very powerful radiation and magnetic fields (including that of Jupiter), and its chips are still chipper.

Voyager 1, image from NASA

The spacecraft is powered by thermoelectric generators that turn the heat from plutonium-238 into electric current, and the three on-board Voyager 1 are expected to provide enough power for some operations through 2025. You might be able to power a wristwatch with a small thermoelectric generator, depending on how comfortable you are with having plutonium on your wrist (perhaps a reader with the relevant engineering background might help us out with power output, heat, and shielding requirements in the comments).

However, if you are a relatively young misanthrope, you might want more than forty-plus years of operating life and this is where the mechanical watch comes in.

Girard-Perregaux observatory pocket tourbillon – not what you usually think of for going off the grid, but it's been around since 1889.

The mechanical watch relies on the mechanical energy provided by the mainspring, and leaving aside accidents, the main failure modes are most likely to be wear on the pivots of the gear train where they run in jewels in the movement plates and bridges, and degradation of power from the mainspring. If we assume that you are bringing tools with you (and why wouldn't we) then it's perfectly possible that you might be able to disassemble, clean, and oil the watch, as needed. You would have to use oils derived from animal or plant sources but those used to be the only game in town before modern synthetic lubricants and they can work well (whale oil used to be ubiquitous in clockmaking, for instance).

Cleaning is a little tricky as you will probably not have access to the usual chemicals used to clean and degrease a watch movement, but soaps will do nicely as long as you remember to dry your components immediately after (watchmakers used to use boxes of dry sawdust to dry movements, which brushes off easily).

That leaves the mainspring. A plain blued-steel mainspring won't last nearly long enough, as they have a tendency to fatigue, "set" (that is, gradually lose their elasticity and become set in a tight spiral), and break. However, I ran this question by none other than Roger Smith, who told me that this is not an issue with modern mainspring alloys. Roger also pointed out, with I think pardonable pride, that one of his watches would be ideal, assuming you can afford one and don't mind a few years on his waiting list – you are probably selling all your worldly possessions anyway so springing, hahahaha, for an RS is as good a way as any to spend the last money you'll ever spend. The advantage to an RS watch is that the escapement does not require oil, so you will not see wear at the impulse surfaces, or rate variation due to lubricant deterioration. (Roger also pointed out that the same advantage would apply to any pocket watch with a chronometer detent escapement.)

Roger Smith Series 2, as seen in 2016.

Over the last couple of decades there have been somewhat experimental watches which don't use conventional oils at all but these usually rely on exotic materials like silicon or even synthetic diamond, and in the event you do need to work on them, you'll need to invent – oh, I don't know, the electric generator to start with, and then God knows what else. In fact, anything made using MEMS technology, LIGA, or processes derived from the semiconductor industry, need not apply. Give me good old steel and whale grease every time.

The question of getting a clock to run for a very long period of time gives us more options, of course, and the Long Now Foundation has been working on a clock called, reasonably enough, The Clock Of The Long Now. It is designed to run, without stopping, for ten thousand years although as it is enormous, buried in a vault of solid rock, and really, something of a reminder of your depressingly short time on Earth, perhaps more of a detriment to your life of untrammeled freedom among the whispering pines, than not.

Me personally, I'll take a Roger Smith. It's completely irrational to bring a watch with you if you're vanishing for good, but it is also something of a symbol. The steady ticking and the motion of its gears and balance are an homage to what us humans used to call The Clockwork Universe – a place where Reason with a capital R was what made the merry old world (and the worlds around it) go 'round. For someone fed up with the unreason of human civilization, I can't think of a better talisman by whose ticking to fall asleep – the peaceful, solitary sleep of one convinced of the truth of Jean-Paul Sartre's observation, that hell is other people.

Vintage Watches: A 1980s Patek Philippe Calatrava Retailed By Tiffany & Co., A 1972 Rolex Submariner, And A Pair Of 1970s Nivada Alertamatics

Wed, 29 Sep 2021 10:57:11 -0400

To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, click here.

Questions? Send us a note, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your vintage watch through the HODINKEE Shop? Click here. Want to sell your pre-owned watch through Crown & Caliber? Click here.

This Week's Vintage Watches

We're pleased to announce that we've located yet another Rolex Deep Sea Special; that's right, the third one to surface (pun definitely intended) as of late. You know, we figured with The Great Outdoors Week in full swing, what's more outdoorsy than the bottom of the ocean? Just kidding, we wish. Although, if you have one you want to part with, "high glass" or "low glass," let us know!

Instead of a two-tone Rolex meant to be strapped to a submarine, this week's vintage selection sticks to the wrist. Few watches grace the wrist better than Patek Philippe's Calatrava. Add in a Clous de Paris hobnail bezel and a Tiffany stamp, and any wrist will be blushing.

1950s Breitling Co-Pilot 'Digital' Chronograph Ref. 765 AVI

1950s Vacheron Constantin Ref. 4906 In 18k Yellow Gold

1970 Omega Speedmaster Professional Mark II Ref. 145.014

1960s Tiffany & Co. Dress Watch In 14k Yellow Gold

1960 Rolex Oyster Royal Precision Ref. 6426

1970s Heuer Autavia 'Viceroy' Ref. 1163V

1968 Bulova Diver Ref. 386-4 '666 Feet'

On The Great Outdoors week side of things (although, hiking in a Calatrava is quite the choice), few models in the history of watches possess the heightened rugged feel of a Rolex Submariner – particularly, the no-date ref. 5513. The example we have this week even sports a beautifully aged "ghost" bezel insert. Other than the Submariner, we have an early and uncommon early Breitling Co-Pilot featuring a digital chronograph minutes register. There's also two alarm-equipped Nivada Alertamatics, a Bulova "Devil Diver," a Speedmaster Mark II, and a Heuer Autavia "Viceroy."

What are you waiting for? Go ahead and hit the great outdoors, vintage style.

Read on for the team's picks and, of course, check out the entire selection in the slideshow above and in the Vintage Watches section of the Shop.

1980s Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 3919 Retailed By Tiffany & Co.

By Saori Omura

Collectors often refer to any elegantly executed time-only watch as a "Calatrava," but what defines a "Calatrava" as a "Calatrava" anyway? When you look at Patek Philippe's Calatrava creations over the years, from the iconic ref. 96 that debuted in the 1930s to the recent ref. 6119, the only true connection is they're fitted in a round case. Though it's never marked as a "Calatrava" on the dial, or anywhere else for that matter, and even with a vague definition of what this model looks like, we know a "Calatrava" when we see it. That is the pinnacle of design; to become a reference point for the category. In this case, that category is beautiful and minimalist time-only dress watches.

On the other side of the Atlantic, Tiffany & Co. has long been associated with the epitome of American elegance in the world of jewelry. When we see that stunning shade of robin's-egg blue, what else can come to mind but Tiffany's? It certainly helps that one of the most memorable film scenes of all time is from Breakfast At Tiffany's, starring Audrey Hepburn, as Holly Golightly, with a croissant and a cup of coffee in hand while looking through the display windows of Tiffany's on Fifth Avenue in New York. The partnership between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. goes way back, even before the Tiffany Blue and Breakfast at Tiffany's existed. In fact, in 1851, Antoine Norbert de Patek and Charles Lewis Tiffany met at Tiffany's store in New York, and the rest is history.

It's not surprising that we find this double-signature between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. on the top of the list for this week's vintage selection, especially for this well-appointed Calatrava ref. 3919. Both signatures are presented together with finesse, so they don't take over the watch. The first thing that jumps at you is the intricate hobnail Clous de Paris finish on the bezel. It's an interesting textured decoration that's geometric in nature with pyramid-like knobs arranged tightly next to each other in two rows. This same finish was used in a few of older vintage watches, but it was only after the definitive success of the ref. 3919 that the motif started to appear more often in Patek's catalog.

I am not sure about the exact inspiration of the dial design, but perhaps, it was an homage to Patek Philippe's exemplary pocket watches. Oftentimes, these pieces were fitted with a white enamel dial with black-painted radial Roman numerals, and small seconds sub-dial at six o'clock. And for the ref. 3919, the dial layout is updated with a fresh, contemporary interpretation.

One subtle but notable update is the black oxidized leaf hands, which give the ref. 3919 a modern lens alongside improved legibility. As unthinkable as it may sound by today's standards, back in the day, some clients would specifically request to have the hands painted in black so they would contrast better against light-colored dials. As a classic dress watch, the watch is fitted with a manual-wound caliber 215 that maintains the watch's slim profile, demonstrating Patek Philippe's expertise in the movement arena. And finally, the Calatrava cross motif on the crown and 18k gold buckle complete the distinguished style. If Mr. Patek and Mr. Tiffany saw this watch, I think they'd be proud of their partnership that was built on a pursuit of integrity and excellence and which started out through a simple handshake 170 years ago.

1972 Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513

By Rich Fordon

The ref. 5513 is hands-down my favorite Submariner. Of course, Brandon is a ref. 1680 guy (you can follow him on Instagram at @brandonfrazin1680) but for me, nothing is better than the no-date, long-running ref. 5513. The look is clean and gives off a much more utilitarian vibe compared to the ref. 1680 or other date-equipped Submariners. If you're really out there in the Great Outdoors, what do you need a date for? The enduring look of a Rolex Submariner is best captured by the no-date 5513. From afar, the look is so recognizable that you might not even know it is vintage at all; although from up close, the neatly faded "ghost" bezel tells you all you need to know, as a subtle nod to the nearly 50 years of life this watch has lived.

Another Submariner hits the shop. And this one stuck out as really special to me. While there is nothing wrong with wearing a Submariner every day, with a suit, a button-down or a t-shirt and jeans, to me, the most versatile Rolex watches are made to be worn – hard. When this example came across the HODINKEE Vintage desk, it completely embodied that spirit to me. Nothing is too perfect here, this is a watch that was made to be used – which it was – and it is now ready to be called on many more times. Bring this ref. 5513 to your wrist next, right here in the Shop.

1970s Nivada Alertamatic Ref. 9751 In Gold Plate & 1970s Nivada Alertamatic Ref. 9751 In Stainless Steel

By Brandon Frazin

The Nivada Alertamatic is a fairly uncommon watch and, to be honest, these are the first ones I have seen in the metal. This model is full of character and funk and is reminiscent of some other alarm watches like the Omega Memomatic. I have been fascinated by mechanical alarm watches for a few years now, starting with a Vulcain Cricket – thanks to one Mr. Eric Wind, cough cough. A mechanical alarm watch was something I had never really even thought about before I owned one, and now it's something I will always appreciate. I get a kick out of comparing how each different alarm sounds.

Nivada came out with the Alertamatic in the 1970s, and it is quite the funky flex if I can say so myself. Especially the gold-plated one, it's just so fun with the gold and brown motif. Having had both versions in the office at the same time is great, when both of these arrived they were quite the topic of discussion. Could these be the perfect two-watch collection? Hmm, maybe to the right person. These really are for the person who appreciates an unconventional style – something you don't see or hear every day.

See what I did there?

When holding both of the watches, you can see the biggest difference lies in the finish of the case metal; one is gold-plated, the other is bare steel. After you get past the case, I notice the dials. The steel one has a nice blue central area with silver and grey notes along the periphery. The gold-plated variant has a lovely, almost mustard yellow center with shades of brown and off-white. Two completely different looks, yet both have a nice bright orange triangle on the central rotating disc to set the alarm. Both also feature a screw-back case, which is always a welcome detail for me. One feature I really like that Nivada used is the presence of a date corrector button on the three o'clock side of the case – now there's no need to go crazy turning the crown to find the right date. I personally like to use a wood toothpick when pushing corrector buttons to minimize scratches. The big question is all-steel, or gold-plated, or both? Check out all the details for yourself here and here.

Happenings: Laurent And Christian Ferrier To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York

Wed, 29 Sep 2021 10:00:44 -0400

From the beginning, Laurent Ferrier’s aim was very clear: to deliver his personal interpretation of the horological theories proposed by his peers. Some of these principles were essentially functional, and Ferrier, mindful of his heritage, would work to improve them. Others were restricted by the limited technical means of their era.

Such was the case with the natural escapement. In 1802, Abraham-Louis Breguet completed his first watch using the ultra efficient escapement. Unfortunately, Breguet was unable to ensure its reliability because of the manufacturing techniques and materials available at the time. Two hundred years later, Laurent Ferrier gave the natural escapement a new lease on life. At the October 2021 meeting of the Horological Society of New York, Laurent and Christian Ferrier will discuss the principles of the natural escapement and how they succeeded in manufacturing it.

Exhibition

To accompany the lecture, Montres Laurent Ferrier will hold an exhibition of timepieces, including some with natural escapements, at the Horological Society of New York on the afternoons of October 5 and 6. HSNY members and the general public are welcome to attend. Timed tickets are required, as well as proof of vaccination. Masks are optional but strongly encouraged.

About Laurent Ferrier

The son and grandson of watchmakers, Laurent Ferrier, the emblematic figure of the brand that bears his name, is profoundly attached to the excellence of traditional watchmaking crafts. His lengthy experience in the fields of horological design, technical research and watch design demonstrates his inventive nature.

Laurent Ferrier develops his own watches, from conception through to production. After 37 years of working for the same firm, the Geneva-based watchmaker decided in 2009 to found a brand dedicated to fine watchmaking, and is backed by his son Christian, a guarantee of continuity.

About Christian Ferrier

After a training in mechanics, Christian Ferrier started his career in a research lab that specialized in aerospace. Soon enough, his passion for watchmaking took over and he left the aerospace industry. When his father decided to launch his new venture, he immediately asked his son to join the team. From the beginning, Christian Ferrier managed the technical design of the very first movement ever made by the brand. He now works with his father in the creation department, perpetuating the family tradition.

Details

The lecture is on Monday, October 4, 2021, from 1:00-3:00 PM Eastern Time (U.S. and Canada) via Zoom Webinar. October's lecture will begin at 1PM ET (GMT -4) to accommodate local time in Switzerland (GMT +2). There will be no in-person gathering for the October lecture, but all are invited to the exhibition on October 5 and 6, mentioned above. Webinar registration is required . All HSNY lectures are free and open to the public, and all are recorded. Recorded lectures are made available to HSNY member s immediately, and the general public with a two-month delay.

HODINKEE is a sponsor of the Horological Society of New York.

A Week On The Wrist: The Two-Tone Rolex Explorer Ref. 124273

Wed, 29 Sep 2021 09:00:00 -0400

Two-Tone Rolex Explorer. That is a combination of four words that I would not at all have expected to say six months ago. And when I first saw them back in April, when Rolex dropped the unexpected ref. 124273, I’ll admit I was caught off-guard. An Explorer with gold? Isn’t that antithetical to the Explorer’s no-nonsense spirit and disrespectful to the legacy of Rolex’s least-changed sport watch? It might very well be, but it’s also the recipe for a watch that I immediately knew I needed to get on my wrist and test for myself.

It’s easy to get jaded in the watch world today. There’s so much “us too” design happening – something becomes successful and then everyone else makes their version of it. There’s so much “heritage” and “DNA” floating around that prevents watchmakers from experimenting. To see Rolex, as storied and conservative a brand as you’ll find anywhere, in any industry, go out on a limb and get weird like this was genuinely inspiring to me. That they could keep me on my toes and show me a watch that put me at a loss for words got me seriously excited.

So how does the watch stand up? I’m a longtime lover of the Rolex Explorer and the proud owner of a vintage (all-steel) Explorer that I wear all the time, and I can truly say that the two-tone Explorer ref. 124273 delivers on its promise of being something familiar and something surprising all at the same time.

The Steadfast Explorer

The Explorer has one of the more straightforward histories when it comes to Rolex sport watches. There are only a handful of references, very few wacky variations, and the design has remained mostly unchanged since the watch debuted in 1953 with the reference 6350. At that point, the watch already had most of its defining characteristics. It used a 36mm stainless steel Oyster case as the foundation and featured a black dial with 3-6-9 numerals, framed by a polished steel bezel. Those characteristics would remain largely unchanged for 57 years, with the reference 1016 itself being produced for nearly half of that span.

The big shake-up came in 2010 with the introduction of the ref. 214270, which upsized the case to 39mm for the first time. To call this controversial amongst Explorer enthusiasts would be an understatement. Die-hards like myself find it hard to consider any watch that isn’t 36mm a true Explorer, as the more reserved size and understated personality are key parts of what make this watch unique within the Rolex catalog. But, Rolex is going to do what Rolex is going to do, and this certainly doesn’t seem to have hurt sales or diminished general interest in the Explorer. Just ask anyone who’s tried to buy a ref. 214270 and they’ll tell you just how hot they are.

If you want a more detailed breakdown of the Explorer’s history and references, be sure to check out J ames’s review of the ref. 214270 Explorer here. He has a fantastic breakdown with photos and there’s no reason for me to rehash that all here.

Let’s Talk Two-Tone

As anyone who lived through the 1980s can attest, the new Explorer draws from a lineage of two-tone Rolex sport watches. Still, there was a not-insignificant amount of outrage when Rolex first dropped this watch back in April 2021. The punters couldn’t stomach a pure tool watch like the Explorer being pushed into two-tone territory. But there’s a ton of precedent for this. It’s nothing new, and, honestly, shouldn’t come as any surprise.

Historically, Rolex has been making two-tone versions of the GMT-Master and the Submariner for over half a century. They’re extremely collectable and part of the general watch landscape. You wouldn’t bat an eye at someone rocking a two-tone Sub with an inky blue dial or a killer root beer GMT on a Jubilee bracelet, would you?

And, if we want to go even more hardcore, do you remember the Deepsea Special? This is the most toolish of Rolex tool watches, created to brave the Mariana Trench on the outside of the bathyscaphe Trieste in 1960. It’s a dive watch that’s massive, rugged, and only borderline describable as a wristwatch at all. But it was two-tone. You can see Deepsea Special 1 in Talking Watches with Reza Ali Rashidian in all of its steel-and-gold glory. Now, go ahead and tell me with a straight face that bimetallic construction makes this watch any less hearty or tough. I’ll wait.

If historical precedent isn’t enough for you, then just look at what Rolex has been doing over the last few years with the Professional watches. The Explorer verging into precious metal territory shouldn’t come as any surprise. We’ve seen a rapid increase in the number of gold Daytona models available, t he Submariner revamp included two-tone, yellow gold, and white gold variants, and we’ve seen GMT-Masters in everything from white gold with meteorite dial to Everose-and-steel two-tone configurations. Rolex wants you to think of their sport watches as more than just steel tool watches, and the Explorer is just the latest to join the party. And if you just can’t handle it, don’t worry, the watch is still available in an all-stainless-steel configuration.

A New (Old) Explorer

What a two-tone Explorer means in concrete terms is that the bezel, crown, hands, applied dial markers, and center bracelet links are made of 18k yellow gold. The case and outer bracelet links are steel. The Oysterlock clasp is mostly steel, with a yellow gold “stripe” running down the center to visually match the bracelet links. This is all right in line with how Rolex typically executes two-tone watches, from Subs to Datejusts. Nothing crazy here.

The other big design tweak, and, in my estimation, the more important one, is the return to a 36mm case size for both the reference 124273 you see here and the all-steel ref. 124270. The new proportions are spot-on. Side-by-side with a vintage Explorer – like my own beloved 1016 – the lineage is clear and the watches look completely of-a-kind. The case profile has been tweaked from earlier 36mm Explorer models, and while it’s tough to pinpoint exact changes and their effects, the overall impact is a clean shape that wears well on the wrist.

To augment the case change, Rolex has totally redesigned the watch’s bracelet in a similar way to how they changed the Submariner’s bracelet last year. The end-links integrate more tightly with the case design, giving better visual continuity (the bracelet looks almost like it flows through the case) and the bracelet itself tapers more dramatically toward the clasp. The result is a watch that wears lighter on the wrist, with better balance and no extra heft.

While the dial is still a classic 3-6-9 Explorer dial with a glossy black lacquer finish, the recent downsizing did impact a few little elements, here and there. The “Explorer” text has moved back up to 12 o’clock from six o’clock and the “Superlative Chronometer / Officially Certified” signature is a bit more spaced out to fill that bottom half. It might be some weird optical illusion thing, but to my eye the new dial looks cleaner and less cramped than the dial on the 214270, despite packing the same info into less space. On the two-tone version of the watch, the gold hands and markers add a ton of visual warmth, reminding me of the gilt dials of the early 1960s.

The last major update is the movement. The caliber 3230 brings the latest generation Rolex technology to the Explorer (some might add a “finally” somewhere in that sentence). It has a Chronergy escapement with a Parachrom hairspring, it has hacking seconds, it’s precise to +2/-2 seconds per day, it’s COSC certified, and it brings a 70-hour power reserve to the table. If you’re looking for a solid workhorse movement that can stand up to whatever you throw its way, the caliber 3230 is tough to beat and a very appropriate engine for a contemporary Explorer.

A Week On The Wrist

As a longtime Explorer fan and vintage Explorer owner, I’ll admit I was a bit flummoxed when pictures of the two-tone Explorer landed in my inbox around 2:00 AM Pacific Time, back in April. Maybe I hadn’t made a strong enough cup of tea and my eyes were playing tricks on me? The big question I kept asking myself was “Why?” What did this watch bring to the table that justified its existence? When would anyone want to wear this thing over an all-steel Explorer or a chunkier two-tone sport watch like the GMT or Sub? Could this be an everyday watch if you wanted it to be?

Answering those questions would require spending some serious time with this watch, which, due to the overwhelming popularity of all Rolex sport watches these days, was going to be difficult. Rolex didn’t have samples to loan and getting a retailer to lend me one was out of the question. Luckily, a friend of mine took delivery of a piece from Polachecks in Calabasas pretty quickly and was kind enough to send it my way for a week.

Closing the Oysterlock clasp, my first impressions were mostly more questions. Do I really like this? Do I look like an idiot wearing this? Am I just buying into the hype machine here? But those faded faster than I’d expected and I quickly settled into wearing the watch. Once I got used to it, it felt almost as at-home as my beat-up 1016.

As far as two-tone watches go, this one is pretty low-key. The two-tone doesn’t shout at you. It’s there when you want to enjoy it, but you don’t look like a henchman in a bad ‘80s flick. Don’t get me wrong, you definitely see the gold, but it’s a soft yellow gold that feels right for our current moment. I love that Rolex didn’t succumb to the temptation to go Everose here. I think that watch would have looked like a caricature of a two-tone Explorer, while this piece feels real and worthy of respect.

The best thing about the watch hands-down is how comfortable it is. If you’ve never worn a 36mm sport watch – an Explorer, and Oyster Perpetual, etc. – go try one on ASAP. For someone with wrists in the sub-seven-inch range, it’s basically perfect. The new profile and new bracelet really shine and I sometimes found myself with that “wait, am I even wearing a watch right now?” feeling. For something that has a not-insubstantial amount of gold in it, that’s rare. I also think the smaller size helps for those who, like myself, are two-tone shy. It’s not that much gold and the black dial still dominates, so you can dip your toe into the two-tone waters without too much risk.

On a more personal note, I moved from New York to Los Angeles last fall, and this watch weirdly hits me as a perfect watch for this moment of transition in my life. It’s got a little bit of flashiness without going overboard; it’s still a slightly austere tool watch at heart; it looks absolutely fantastic in the Malibu sunshine. It basically ticks all the boxes. Also, as the world starts to look like it’s opening up again after more than a year in isolation (recent events aside), this is the kind of watch I want to be wearing. It’s fun, it starts conversations, and it doesn’t take itself too seriously. It’s a watch you want to be seen wearing, but it’s not a watch that rubs anything in anyone’s face. I’m hard-pressed to think of a watch that better suits that mood and moment.

The Competition

Before we get into the other watches you might want to buy instead of this one, I want to call out the two-tone ref. 124273 as a real value proposition. The watch retails for $10,800. That’s obviously still a nice chunk of change and just over the line into the five-figure mark, but when you think about what you’re getting for that money I think it’s quite a lot. You get to wade into the world of gold Rolex watches for just a hair over $10,000, in a world where a gold Submariner will set you back more than $35,000. Sure, it’s not a one-to-one comparison, but I think you catch my drift.

As for other watches that you might want to consider if you’re reading this review and thinking about which AD’s wait list might be the shortest, here are a few ideas.

Rolex Explorer Ref. 124270

This is the all-steel version of the ref. 124273 and it’s an absolute stunner. If two-tone is your only problem with the 124273, just go for this version and wash all your woes away. It’s the closest thing we’ve had on the market to an old-school ref. 1016 in years and it might be the best all-around value in Rolex’s collection today at $6,450 (a little bit less than its 39mm predecessor). It’s an Explorer. It’s 36mm. It’s fantastic.

$6,450; rolex.com

Tudor Black Bay 36 S&G

The Black Bay 36 S&G is simultaneously the ref. 124273’s predecessor and younger sibling, having launched a few years ago, but at a fraction of the price. You get a Jubilee-style bracelet, the same dial/bezel/crown/links situation when it comes to the steel-and-gold combo, and a similar 36mm profile (though it’s a bit chunkier than the Explorer). If you like two-tone, but you’re not sure you want to plonk down more than ten grand on a bi-color Explorer, this is your move.

$4,100; tudorwatch.com

Oris Divers Sixty-Five In Bronze And Stainless Steel

If you want to go even more affordable, but with a similar overall vibe, look to Oris and the steel-and-bronze Divers Sixty-Five models. I think this version with the “sunset brown” dial is the most handsome, but there are a few variations. The only bummer here is that Oris doesn’t make these in the 36mm size – at that case size you can only get the bronze bezel (no bronze bracelet links). This is a two-tone look at a very reasonable price point, making it a fun summer watch if you’re looking to shake things up.

$2,400; shop.hodinkee.com

You’ll notice here that there are no real one-to-one comparisons for the new two-tone Explorer. Nothing at a similar price point that offers a similar look or construction or quality. Considering how influential Rolex is in the broader watch industry, I don’t expect it to stay that way for very long. Be on the lookout for two-tone sport watches under 40mm in the $8,000-12,000 price range over the next year or two. I have a funny feeling this section will need to be updated sooner rather than later ...

Final Thoughts

Despite coming to the watch with a healthy dose of skepticism, I really fell in love with the ref. 124273 – and it didn’t even take all week. Within a day or two I was smitten. I’d find myself staring at it in the sunshine or hiking my sleeve up at brunch, hoping a friend would ask me about it. It’s a flat-out fun watch that inspires even the most jaded of watch reviewers to get excited and to want to share that excitement with others.

I have worn a vintage Explorer more than any other watch over the last four or five years. It’s a watch I know forward and backward, inside and out. But the 124273 made me think about it in a new way. It got me thinking about what makes the Explorer so special, what has allowed its relatively simple design to endure for two-thirds of a century, mostly unchanged. It even got me thinking about what it even means to “Explore” today.

Rewind: The Rolex That Went To Everest And A Deep Sea Special

Tue, 28 Sep 2021 14:00:00 -0400

Rene Beyer runs Beyer Chronometrie, a shop founded in 1760, and the eighth generation of his family to do so. We had the pleasure of speaking to him three years ago about what it's like to come from a family so involved with the watch and jewelry business. I know, a visit to a watch museum operated by a multi-generational Zurich retailer – what's outdoorsy about that? A whole lot, it turns out.

In the course of his conversation with Beyer, Stephen Pulvirent saw a laundry-list of epic watches that could have been the centerpiece of a top-tier collection, from a Rolex Day-Date personally given to his father by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf to a pocket watch made by George Daniels himself.

But it's two Rolexes in particular that made me think of this episode as we were heading into HODINKEE's Great Outdoors Week. Beyer showed us an incredibly rare Rolex Deep Sea Special, made to commemorate the descent of bathyscaphe Trieste into the Mariana Trench. He also took out a Rolex Oyster Perpetual worn to the Summit of Everest in 1953 when Norgay and Hillary made their ascent.

Join us as we travel back to the Uhrenmuseum Beyer for a look at these incredible pieces.

To watch and read Talking Watches With Rene Beyer, click here.

Happenings: Mountaineer And Photographer Cory Richards At Vacheron Constantin New York: 'Exploring The Space In Between'

Tue, 28 Sep 2021 13:00:17 -0400

Vacheron Constantin's partnership with mountaineer and National Geographic photographer Cory Richards has produced what HODINKEE's James Stacey called, "easily my favorite watch of 2021" – the Overseas Dual Time Everest, which along with the Overseas Chronograph Everest, launched earlier this month. For many watch enthusiasts, this may have been the first introduction to Richards, but his work as a photographer will be familiar to a much wider audience. Vacheron Constantin has mounted an exhibit of some of his most iconic photographs at the New York boutique, which will be running through November 15th, 2021.

Khoisan Tribesmen, Botswana

Richards's work began as a result of his experience as a mountaineer, which, to put it mildly, is considerable – in 2011, along with Simone Moro of Italy and Denis Urubko of Kazakhstan, he reached the summit of Gasherbrum II in Pakistan – the first team to ever succeed in summiting one of Pakistan's 8000-meter peaks in the winter. It was an expedition nearly cut short by tragedy. During the descent, Richards and his teammates were caught in a powerful avalanche. Miraculously, they survived, and when Richards realized that they were all unscathed, he snapped a self-portrait – one of his most iconic images.

Cory Richards, 2011, after surviving an avalanche.

Even viewed online, his photographs make a remarkable impression but I can't recommend seeing them in person strongly enough. They're not just pictures of technical exploration, either – his lens looks into the human experience all across the world.

Goat herder, Mustang, between Nepal and Tibet

The exhibition is in line with Vacheron's ambitions for its new home on East 57th Street – the new boutique is a spacious, airy space which the company will use for both watch experiences and retail, and for art exhibits, as well. Along with Richards's photographs, several of Vacheron's own watches with a connection to adventure and exploration are also there, including several Overseas models (and the Overseas' predecessor, the 222), and pocket watches.

Pocketwatch presented to aviator Agénor Parmelin, the first to fly over Mont Blanc

Vacheron Constantin 222

Vacheron Constantin Overseas, the collection chosen by Richards

The Overseas Everest Dual Time

If you're interested in finding out more about Cory Richards and his work, don't miss his appearance on The Grey Nato podcast from 2019. And do be sure to check out the exhibit – if like me, you've spent way too much time staring at your co-workers in janky video feeds on Zoom, seeing the wide-open spaces and people who call them home is a breath of fresh air.

Vacheron's New York boutique is located at 28 East 57th Street. "Exploring The Space In Between" will be up through November 15th, 2021.

Shop this story

To learn more about Vacheron Constantin watches, visit their website.

Introducing: The Hermès H08 Limited Edition for HODINKEE

Tue, 28 Sep 2021 10:58:00 -0400

Congratulations to #TheHourGlass for its 40th anniversary! #URWERK’s gratitude to its #Singapore partner takes the form of an original creation, unveiled today: a series of three self-winding watches made in bronze. Learn more about this creation here:

Wed, 24 Jul 2019 09:09:52 -0400

Congratulations to #TheHourGlass for its 40th anniversary! #URWERK’s gratitude to its #Singapore partner takes the form of an original creation, unveiled today: a series of three self-winding watches made in bronze. Learn more about this creation here: https://bit.ly/2GsIGzT pic.twitter.com/8JEHFYlE8X

White, blue or pink? Which #SpiritOfBigBang captures your mood today?pic.twitter.com/m3gpKIHFjQ

Wed, 24 Jul 2019 09:02:01 -0400

White, blue or pink? Which #SpiritOfBigBang captures your mood today? pic.twitter.com/m3gpKIHFjQ

The Tissot Lovely Square is designed for the woman in search of new adventures, experiences and encounters. Her heart’s desire? To be surprised. Discover it now http://bit.ly/2XAuNth pic.twitter.com/y1cBAxetA0

Wed, 24 Jul 2019 08:07:00 -0400

The Tissot Lovely Square is designed for the woman in search of new adventures, experiences and encounters. Her heart’s desire? To be surprised. Discover it now http://bit.ly/2XAuNth pic.twitter.com/y1cBAxetA0

The World Fencing Championship 2019 was filled with amazing moments. Tissot is proud to be the Official Timekeeper of such a great event and high-precision sport discipline and wants to congratulate all the athletes for their great battles. Results here:

Wed, 24 Jul 2019 05:01:04 -0400

The World Fencing Championship 2019 was filled with amazing moments. Tissot is proud to be the Official Timekeeper of such a great event and high-precision sport discipline and wants to congratulate all the athletes for their great battles. Results here: http://bit.ly/TissotWFC19 pic.twitter.com/P1Zng1hmbu

Wherever your destination this summer, keep track of all time zones with the Globetrotter.pic.twitter.com/vrTIfOfsNy

Tue, 23 Jul 2019 14:23:09 -0400

Wherever your destination this summer, keep track of all time zones with the Globetrotter. pic.twitter.com/vrTIfOfsNy

MEMORIS TITANIUM is the first chronograph in the history of watchmaking to be both fun and educational. One model with a blue mainplate, the other one with an orange mainplate. Which one’s your favourite? Only a few pieces are still available!pic.twitter.

Tue, 23 Jul 2019 06:29:19 -0400

MEMORIS TITANIUM is the first chronograph in the history of watchmaking to be both fun and educational. One model with a blue mainplate, the other one with an orange mainplate. Which one’s your favourite? Only a few pieces are still available! pic.twitter.com/PSTDROL9P6

New star of Spanish athletics, @mariiaviicentee not only breaks records, she breaks them in record time! It will therefore come as no surprise that she has also become the latest and youngest member of the Richard Mille family.pic.twitter.com/6mt2nhygcE

Tue, 23 Jul 2019 05:25:38 -0400

New star of Spanish athletics, @mariiaviicentee not only breaks records, she breaks them in record time! It will therefore come as no surprise that she has also become the latest and youngest member of the Richard Mille family. pic.twitter.com/6mt2nhygcE

The Marine affirms its sporty elegance. From case to bracelet, the Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 features a titanium design. #BreguetExplorer #BreguetLaMarine #ref5547pic.twitter.com/TeQ5h5xJ1e

Tue, 23 Jul 2019 04:00:03 -0400

The Marine affirms its sporty elegance. From case to bracelet, the Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 features a titanium design. #BreguetExplorer #BreguetLaMarine #ref5547 pic.twitter.com/TeQ5h5xJ1e

Featuring blued screws, a fully openworked movement with a white gold rotor and a sapphire dial, on which the large seconds hand turns. The 41mm ceramic case of the Grande Seconde Skelet-One houses an automatic movement allowing you to see how your new co

Tue, 23 Jul 2019 02:31:30 -0400

Featuring blued screws, a fully openworked movement with a white gold rotor and a sapphire dial, on which the large seconds hand turns. The 41mm ceramic case of the Grande Seconde Skelet-One houses an automatic movement allowing you to see how your new companion functions. pic.twitter.com/gx3QUvEfmz

After #Ibiza, Hublot continues to celebrate #summer in #Mykonos with the new #ClassicFusionMykonos. Available in King Gold and Titanium. Limited edition of 50 pieces each.pic.twitter.com/HOchuDnReh

Mon, 22 Jul 2019 10:18:32 -0400

After #Ibiza, Hublot continues to celebrate #summer in #Mykonos with the new #ClassicFusionMykonos. Available in King Gold and Titanium. Limited edition of 50 pieces each. pic.twitter.com/HOchuDnReh

Discover our #SpiritOfBigBang Yellow Sapphire. Limited edition of 100 pieces. #HublotSapphirepic.twitter.com/ohWNdWgmYg

Mon, 22 Jul 2019 09:00:46 -0400

Discover our #SpiritOfBigBang Yellow Sapphire. Limited edition of 100 pieces. #HublotSapphire pic.twitter.com/ohWNdWgmYg

The result of a traditional and artisanal craft, the HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine’s mineral glass dial provides a unique sparkle that perfectly matches our precise and oversized moon phase display.pic.twitter.com/7Ia45R4iN2

Sun, 21 Jul 2019 16:20:25 -0400

The result of a traditional and artisanal craft, the HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine’s mineral glass dial provides a unique sparkle that perfectly matches our precise and oversized moon phase display. pic.twitter.com/7Ia45R4iN2

A tribute to the small Tissot ladies' watches of the 1960s, the Tissot Lovely Square . Have a look at this new collection now >> http://bit.ly/2XAuNth #LovelySquare #Power2Stylepic.twitter.com/c1Esniu5cN

Sun, 21 Jul 2019 12:00:00 -0400

A tribute to the small Tissot ladies' watches of the 1960s, the Tissot Lovely Square . Have a look at this new collection now >> http://bit.ly/2XAuNth #LovelySquare #Power2Style pic.twitter.com/c1Esniu5cN

This summer, add a bit of sparkle to your style with our #BigBangUnico Sapphire baguette.pic.twitter.com/oOZ7627rYF

Sun, 21 Jul 2019 09:01:02 -0400

This summer, add a bit of sparkle to your style with our #BigBangUnico Sapphire baguette. pic.twitter.com/oOZ7627rYF

Dive into the infinite blue of our #SpiritOfBigBang Blue. The timepiece captures the azure of the Mediterranean Sea with blue microblasted and polished ceramic combined with a blue alligator strap stitched onto white rubber.pic.twitter.com/AvPHXtE4b1

Sat, 20 Jul 2019 09:01:16 -0400

Dive into the infinite blue of our #SpiritOfBigBang Blue. The timepiece captures the azure of the Mediterranean Sea with blue microblasted and polished ceramic combined with a blue alligator strap stitched onto white rubber. pic.twitter.com/AvPHXtE4b1

The three titanium models in the Marine collection are now available with bracelets of the same material, adding robust and light properties to this collection. #BreguetExplorer #BreguetLaMarine #ref5547pic.twitter.com/wKZWIdLsXf

Sat, 20 Jul 2019 04:31:01 -0400

The three titanium models in the Marine collection are now available with bracelets of the same material, adding robust and light properties to this collection. #BreguetExplorer #BreguetLaMarine #ref5547 pic.twitter.com/wKZWIdLsXf

On the 100th anniversary of the Yellow Jersey, Bernard Hinault 5 x winner of @LeTour, had the honour of gifting a #Tissot T-Race Cycling to @alafpolak1 winner of Stage 13, the Individual Time Trial in Pau !pic.twitter.com/6RCzi5MYgg

Sat, 20 Jul 2019 03:07:56 -0400

On the 100th anniversary of the Yellow Jersey, Bernard Hinault 5 x winner of @LeTour, had the honour of gifting a #Tissot T-Race Cycling to @alafpolak1 winner of Stage 13, the Individual Time Trial in Pau ! pic.twitter.com/6RCzi5MYgg

Gergely SIKLOSI #HUN World Champion of #Budapest2019 #fencing @fencing2019 Full results on: http://ow.ly/mpCj50v6cVB @TISSOTpic.twitter.com/IKp2QEVQHS

Fri, 19 Jul 2019 14:58:00 -0400

Gergely SIKLOSI #HUN World Champion of #Budapest2019 #fencing @fencing2019 Full results on: http://ow.ly/mpCj50v6cVB @TISSOT pic.twitter.com/IKp2QEVQHS

To honor the 100th anniversary of the famous Yellow Jersey, Tissot created the Chrono XL Tour de France Special Edition 2019 which comes with 2 interchangeable leather straps, one decorated with yellow jerseys, the symbol of this legendary race. http://b

Fri, 19 Jul 2019 08:02:00 -0400

To honor the 100th anniversary of the famous Yellow Jersey, Tissot created the Chrono XL Tour de France Special Edition 2019 which comes with 2 interchangeable leather straps, one decorated with yellow jerseys, the symbol of this legendary race. http://bit.ly/2NuWgIM pic.twitter.com/pTn4pGvd33

NEW VIDEO – The configuration used by ULTRAVOX is unique. The central flirt triggers a system to arm the hammer. This strikes the hours on a gong arranged around the movement. The pulsating balance wheel channels the force of the barrel to regulate the pa

Fri, 19 Jul 2019 06:48:24 -0400

NEW VIDEO – The configuration used by ULTRAVOX is unique. The central flirt triggers a system to arm the hammer. This strikes the hours on a gong arranged around the movement. The pulsating balance wheel channels the force of the barrel to regulate the pace of the chime. pic.twitter.com/4WgQh5Kqng

Finesse, technicity and Avant Gardism perfectly define the RM 07-01 in gem-set ceramic. The delicate row of diamonds emphasizes the curves on the white ceramic bezel, echoing the central dial in mother of pearl and diamonds.pic.twitter.com/X7S06ba6yg

Thu, 18 Jul 2019 10:38:11 -0400

Finesse, technicity and Avant Gardism perfectly define the RM 07-01 in gem-set ceramic. The delicate row of diamonds emphasizes the curves on the white ceramic bezel, echoing the central dial in mother of pearl and diamonds. pic.twitter.com/X7S06ba6yg

ULTRAVOX is the first hour-strike with a visible mechanism! Revealing its mechanism on the wrist enables all its beauty and complexity to be admired. Each hour sounds on the hour, with the appropriate number of chimes, along with a silencer mechanism if t

Thu, 18 Jul 2019 10:28:20 -0400

ULTRAVOX is the first hour-strike with a visible mechanism! Revealing its mechanism on the wrist enables all its beauty and complexity to be admired. Each hour sounds on the hour, with the appropriate number of chimes, along with a silencer mechanism if the wearer wishes so. pic.twitter.com/LZfPTFmw0C

Race For Water, an ambassador of energy transition, her only sources of energy being the sun, the wind and the ocean. Breguet joined Race for Water as the main sponsor of a five-year program with a crucial mission for the oceans. @raceforwater #BreguetExp

Thu, 18 Jul 2019 03:00:01 -0400

Race For Water, an ambassador of energy transition, her only sources of energy being the sun, the wind and the ocean. Breguet joined Race for Water as the main sponsor of a five-year program with a crucial mission for the oceans. @raceforwater #BreguetExplorer #BreguetLaMarine pic.twitter.com/U2alsxkD5c

In the 19th century, Louis Moinet’s clocks sounded out the hours of some of the world’s greatest leaders: Napoleon Bonaparte, Alexander I,Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe. To celebrate the 250th anniversary of Louis Moinet’s birth, we’ve gone back to our ro

Wed, 17 Jul 2019 10:38:30 -0400

In the 19th century, Louis Moinet’s clocks sounded out the hours of some of the world’s greatest leaders: Napoleon Bonaparte, Alexander I,Thomas Jefferson, James Monroe. To celebrate the 250th anniversary of Louis Moinet’s birth, we’ve gone back to our roots with the hour-strike. pic.twitter.com/ly9RaeKmg7

Like having the cosmos on your wrist: HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine.pic.twitter.com/UpCn1hlFuz

Wed, 17 Jul 2019 10:10:32 -0400

Like having the cosmos on your wrist: HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine. pic.twitter.com/UpCn1hlFuz

The striking contrast created by the sparkle of clear baguette diamonds set in the heart of the matt Carbon TPT focuses all eyes on the automatic RM 037.pic.twitter.com/Lru8mCZnB8

Wed, 17 Jul 2019 05:24:06 -0400

The striking contrast created by the sparkle of clear baguette diamonds set in the heart of the matt Carbon TPT focuses all eyes on the automatic RM 037. pic.twitter.com/Lru8mCZnB8

Our timeless #BigBangUnico, now available in blue. #BigBangBluepic.twitter.com/94Q2by2oAj

Wed, 17 Jul 2019 03:00:34 -0400

Our timeless #BigBangUnico, now available in blue. #BigBangBlue pic.twitter.com/94Q2by2oAj

It won’t show you the #LunarEclipse tonight, but the HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine provides a different kind of spectacle in the dark.pic.twitter.com/c21uOhnuEs

Tue, 16 Jul 2019 17:28:42 -0400

It won’t show you the #LunarEclipse tonight, but the HM Perpetual Moon Aventurine provides a different kind of spectacle in the dark. pic.twitter.com/c21uOhnuEs

This summer, discover our #ClassicFusionOrlinski King Gold, now available in 40mm. #RichardOrlinskipic.twitter.com/fArRllydWW

Tue, 16 Jul 2019 09:00:57 -0400

This summer, discover our #ClassicFusionOrlinski King Gold, now available in 40mm. #RichardOrlinski pic.twitter.com/fArRllydWW

The Race for Water foundation is working towards offering solutions for preserving the oceans from plastic pollution, a genuine environmental disaster on a planetary scale. @raceforwater #BreguetExplorer #BreguetLaMarinepic.twitter.com/kLDnyKwxpX

Tue, 16 Jul 2019 04:00:02 -0400

The Race for Water foundation is working towards offering solutions for preserving the oceans from plastic pollution, a genuine environmental disaster on a planetary scale. @raceforwater #BreguetExplorer #BreguetLaMarine pic.twitter.com/kLDnyKwxpX

This summer, fall for the first Hublot Eyewear Collection by @ITIndependent. #ItaliaIndependent #TheArtOfFusionpic.twitter.com/SkdIVzhMBa

Mon, 15 Jul 2019 11:40:50 -0400

This summer, fall for the first Hublot Eyewear Collection by @ITIndependent. #ItaliaIndependent #TheArtOfFusion pic.twitter.com/SkdIVzhMBa

The random setting adorning the RM 037 white gold increases the diamond's brilliance and shines brilliantly on any wrist.pic.twitter.com/byyyw57Zp0

Mon, 15 Jul 2019 10:37:30 -0400

The random setting adorning the RM 037 white gold increases the diamond's brilliance and shines brilliantly on any wrist. pic.twitter.com/byyyw57Zp0

It’s all about details. #TheArtOfFusion #BigBangMeca10pic.twitter.com/2WGECdNcHR

Mon, 15 Jul 2019 05:25:04 -0400

It’s all about details. #TheArtOfFusion #BigBangMeca10 pic.twitter.com/2WGECdNcHR

#NYCEPrix I can't believe it! Victory yesterday, P3 today and finished season 5 of the championship in 2nd place! Hard work pays off. A huge thank to the entire @nissanedams @NISMO team for their work and to you for your unconditional support all over the

Sun, 14 Jul 2019 18:29:48 -0400

#NYCEPrix I can't believe it! Victory yesterday, P3 today and finished season 5 of the championship in 2nd place! Hard work pays off. A huge thank to the entire @nissanedams @NISMO team for their work and to you for your unconditional support all over the season pic.twitter.com/iQBIV6ItGV

Because green Unique piece #Maestro in white gold, emeralds and diamondspic.twitter.com/Zy9lzCVvvv

Sun, 14 Jul 2019 13:09:12 -0400

Because green Unique piece #Maestro in white gold, emeralds and diamonds pic.twitter.com/Zy9lzCVvvv